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Aus R2
(03-16-2019, 10:47 PM)Cyber_One Wrote: Just a small tip, for the audio play back, you will want an MP3 player, MP4 is for video.

It's  ok... I know MP4 is for video... I wasn't setting up the audio side (though will need audio with the video)... I was setting up the parts for a DIY projector to install in R2. I should still be able to use it to work out focal lengths etc... but I'm thinking I'll use one of those raspberry pi 2.2" screens or something similar.
That does sound cool, can't wait to see video of that.
Ok... so I'm trying to not get bogged down in one part and to that end I decided to glue as much of the dome parts in as possible (ie I haven't glued in parts I might want to move). It's looking ok... I, of course, can see all the issues with it... but from a distance it does a decent job.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=1531]

I'm currently waiting on some electronic elements to attempt to make the Logic light arrays (I know I could buy one of the kits but that's too expensive for me to purchase all in one go, the way I'm doing it I can spread the cost out over a few weeks. Also I like the idea of figuring it out myself... albeit with plenty of help from Youtube videos etc.).

Considering the most involved I have been with electronics before is more or less just soldering some wires together to get two 12V fans running off the same supply... it's fair to say my knowledge of circuits etc is limited (Dad was an electronics engineering teacher but I didn't show enough interest when I was a child... he is happy to help now but is in another state so it's a bit tricky).

So the dome is mostly done (at least the external appearance)... my holoprojector project is going pretty well but I'm currently waiting for the delivery of a new lens. I happend to (re) find a lens I had bought at a market many years ago... turns it out, it seems like it was a lens for a rear projection tv. I had bought it at the time because I had made a DIY projector and thought it would be cool to have parts to make another one (I never did)... this lens wouldn't actually be very good for that though as the throw is very short... but a short throw is perfect for the projector I want to build for R2.... however the lens itself is about two to three times the size I'd like it to be and quite heavy (I'm hoping to still be able to have the holoprojector moveable... with the weight of the current lens I think I'd need a stronger servo at least.

So... the build continues. Currently finishing up the upper dome print... then I'll move onto the lower and probably the dome drive mechanism etc... though it's tempting to move into printing some of the body... we'll see... I should try and remain "methodical" with my print order.

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
Ok... so small update.

The dome is more or less done... for now at least. There are still plenty of electronics to be sorted but I have had some success there.
I was originally going to use a small LED array and have it provide the colour wipe from the front of R2... but after a chat to my dad he suggested a Neopixel ring (and then promptly sent me one)... after a quick search for how to program... some trial and error... I have a result that I'm pretty pleased with. I might need to work on the timings... but the overall look I think is pretty close.

The diffuser I used is simply one from an old LCD monitor.

I'm currently printing the body. I had to orient the base ring on it's side to fit on my printer as I am only using a Sunhokey Prusa i3 clone (my DIY printer is more or less out of action... I need to design my own and rebuild, but I'm kind of obsessing over R2 at the moment so as to how long it will take to get that one up and running again is anyone's guess).

The base ring is now done... I'm printing the parts to Ring 1 and noticed on one (after about 5 and a half hours printing) that it had a layer shift.) The print before it also had a small layer shift (that I may be able to work around with filing and filling?).
There's a chance all that caused the issue was me fiddling with the cabling for the hotbed... so that would make this a case of "if it's not broken, don't fiddle with it".
I'm currently taking the opportunity to print a direct drive upgrade though as I prefer direct drive to bowden and because I didn't entirely set this one up properly when I first got it (it was gifted to me and part of it was broken... but rather than print the replacement part I ziptied it)... it's got it's own issues.

I'm looking forward to getting the body done though as that will give me something to rest the dome on rather than my shelf which it doesn't really sit on neatly.
Ok so I've been quiet here for a while. Partly I've had some time off printing... partly I've been unimpressed by some of my print results... having said that I forged ahead anyway (partly because of the time and money already invested in it... also because I was hoping I could "clean it up" in post as it were).

My dome is more or less done... at lease the frame (as previously mentioned)... I have the parts that theoretically mean I should be able to start putting my DIY projector together (I just have to figure out how to get my 1.44" LCD to work with my raspberry pi to display the video).

The body is more or less done... at least the frame, but this is where the really rough look has been an issue... a number of the printed parts actually warped a bit and I didn't realise how much impact that would have until I was trying to put it all together... so when it comes time to attach the dome to the body there may be a bit of a gap... but I will cross that bridge when I come to it.

I have also been finding that the filler primers don't "fill" as much as I would like... I've got some pretty noticeable layer lines and what is likely infill patterning on the outside (I had walls set to 2... I've since upped that to 5 and they look much better).
I had a bunch of ceiling paint hanging around from the previous owner of the house so I figured I'd give that a go on the body with the idea that it has a much higher viscosity than spray... well... anything... and it might help hide some of the "crimes"... I think to a large degree it did... but then I sanded back and there are still some issues... but I think it's a lot more workable.

I'm trying to come to terms with the fact that this is likely to be a "rustic" R2.


But my current quandary is two fold.
1: I'm not quite sure how to attach my legs... I've printed one so far (a few more greebles but otherwise it's done)... but I'm, not sure what part I need to print to attach it. I'm thinking of going for a 2:3:2 or a 3 at the very least... but I don't seem to be able to find anywhere in the instructions where it says how to attach the legs... or more specifically what part to print to achieve that.

Ok... so a bit more digging and I found the circular part that the legs seem to attach to... (it's in the Modules Fixed Shoulders directory, Hubleft Hubright).

So the next question... this is in a folder for fixed shoulder... but is the hub likely to be used for the mobile shoulder as well or will that be a different part?

Hoping I can get my printer back up and running to get these things done once I figure it out (was using a sunhokey prusa clone and it looks like running it for 10hours plus has fried the power input... it might be salvageable... but will take a bit of work.)
Michael's design only currently has fixed shoulders for either 2 or 3 leg mode. If you want 2-3-2 you will need to go with a third party design for the shoulder modules and hubs.

I wouldn't recommend attempting a 2-3-2 build unless you want a major challenge. My design is quite complex and requires very strong prints or you could end up with a face planted droid.

(07-12-2019, 10:47 PM)Martyman Wrote: Michael's design only currently has fixed shoulders for either 2 or 3 leg mode. If you want 2-3-2 you will need to go with a third party design for the shoulder modules and hubs.

I wouldn't recommend attempting a 2-3-2 build unless you want a major challenge. My design is quite complex and requires very strong prints or you could end up with a face planted droid.


That's what I was thinking was the case. I assume 3 leg mode simply means he will sit with the body at a slight angle? That's probably what I will go for.

Thanks for that.
Yes, there are two sets of holes in the shoulder modules and you just pick the ones that set his side legs at an angle.

If you are making a mobile droid you really have to build it in 3 leg mode, as they are really unstable driving in two leg mode, limiting you to really slow speeds. 2 Leg mode is great for storage/display and transport.
I recently modded the Mark III shoulder module to allow for a manual 2-3-2 on my R5-D4. I helps with transport et al. I plan on doing the same to retrofit my version 2 R2-D2. I'll post the files when I am done if there is any interest.


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