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Dome
#1
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And so the build begins!!

I'll be starting off with the dome, because that sounds like the most fun...

I've got a few pieces for the holoprojector printed, and I'm currently printing the first two main dome pieces. I've been testing different materials for the dome, and will be using PETG after severely inconsistent ABS printing and at the recommendation of Eebel here on the forum. I'll probably still have some PLA and ABS parts just because I have a lot of it sitting around, but the vast majority will be PETG to take advantage of the durability, heat resistance, and ease of printing. Picked up 3 spools today to get started!


[Image: BLxEYFE.jpg]
First parts off the printer. White ABS and Grey PLA. 

Since this is my first time printing in PETG, I'm taking first print real slow at the recommendation at several sources online and will be increasing the speed slowly until I dial it in. I'm currently printing at a whopping 30mm/s! 

[Image: C0C9cXV.jpg]
Here's my little robot duo hard at work currently! 

I am curious what other people who are using PETG are printing at. The results at this speed are fantastic, but just painfully slow.

That's all for now. Now we wait!
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#2
(09-15-2018, 03:50 AM)woody Wrote: ...
I am curious what other people who are using PETG are printing at. The results at this speed are fantastic, but just painfully slow.
...

I only go real slow on the first couple layers (25% of PLA speeds) just to make sure it sticks to the bed, and quickly crank it up to PLA speeds after that, it sticks to itself real well. Don't use a parts fan, layer adhesion will be better without it.
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#3
(09-15-2018, 03:17 PM)LarryJ Wrote:
(09-15-2018, 03:50 AM)woody Wrote: ...
I am curious what other people who are using PETG are printing at. The results at this speed are fantastic, but just painfully slow.
...

I only go real slow on the first couple layers (25% of PLA speeds) just to make sure it sticks to the bed, and quickly crank it up to PLA speeds after that, it sticks to itself real well. Don't use a parts fan, layer adhesion will be better without it.

Gotcha! Sounds good. That's about what I have it now. Regular print speed of 50mm/s and 15mm/s for the initial layer. Unfortunately, I'm using Cura and I don't think it lets me change the speed for more than the first layer. 

I had done some reading about using the part cooling fan, with most articles saying you gain structural strength but lose in the finish of the part. Have you noticed a significant impact in the finish when not using a cooling fan?

Thank you for the help by the way!
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#4
I use Simplify 3D. It's worth the money for the refined control over your print. I use white eSun PETG and print at 240C with an 85 degree bed temp. Most prints can be done at 3600 mm/min. I clean the bed (PEI) periodically with alcohol. I have not had any bed adhesion problems with this setup. In fact, it often sticks too well and hard to get off.

I do not use the cooling fan at all. I printed a majority of my prints on my Taz 6 with a .5 mm nozzle and using .4mm layer height. However, I did put a .4mm nozzle on my Taz mini so I can print some of the cosmetic pieces at a .3 ( or even .2mm for some stuff like the interface tool). If you have small columns to print you will want to slow down to 2000mm/min. But with Simplify 3D, it is easy to add a speed change to affect only the part of the print that needs the slower speed for detail. All in all R2 is so big you gain reduced print times with the bigger layer height. The finishing time is negligible as you sand out and bondo the layer lines which are needed at .4 or .3 layer heights. In general, the higher the layer height the stronger the piece will be.

Oh, I think I have used 30KG of PETG for my R2. Maybe one spool of Raptor PLA and nearly 2 pounds of Nylon. Having said that, I have probably 3 spools of test pieces ( as I developed custom pieces) and power outage and other failed prints. Overall I have over 35 days of print time in pieces that are in R2.

Eebel
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#5
(09-17-2018, 05:53 AM)Eebel Wrote: I use Simplify 3D.  It's worth the money for the refined control over your print.  I use white eSun PETG and print at 240C with an 85 degree bed temp.  Most prints can be done at 3600 mm/min.  I clean the bed (PEI) periodically with alcohol.  I have not had any bed adhesion problems with this setup.  In fact, it often sticks too well and hard to get off.

I do not use the cooling fan at all.  I printed a majority of my prints on my Taz 6 with a .5 mm nozzle and using .4mm layer height.  However, I did put a .4mm nozzle on my Taz mini so I can print some of the cosmetic pieces at a .3 ( or even .2mm for some stuff like the interface tool).  If you have small columns to print you will want to slow down to 2000mm/min.  But with Simplify 3D, it is easy to add a speed change to affect only the part of the print that needs the slower speed for detail.  All in all R2 is so big you gain reduced print times with the bigger layer height.  The finishing time is negligible as you sand out and bondo the layer lines which are needed at .4 or .3 layer heights.  In general, the higher the layer height the stronger the piece will be.

Oh, I think I have used 30KG of PETG for my R2.  Maybe one spool of Raptor PLA and nearly 2 pounds of Nylon.  Having said that, I have probably 3 spools of test pieces ( as I developed custom pieces) and power outage and other failed prints.  Overall I have over 35 days of print time in pieces that are in R2.

Eebel

Thanks for the information! That's incredibly helpful. I'll be back up and printing PETG this week. This weekend turned out to be a bust for main dome piece, because I wasted most of my time trying to tune a printer that I found out had a broken PINDA probe. I have a new shipping out today! I'll play around with those settings, and I definitely need to increase my layer height!! I'm printing mine pretty fine, and it's taking far too long. 

Also, I'm curious what you used the Nylon filament for in your build? I've never used it before, and I'm curious what it would be useful for. 

Thanks again for the help!

I read somewhere in the forum that there is a file that lists which files should be printed with supports. Does anyone know where that file is located?
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#6
(09-15-2018, 03:45 PM)woody Wrote: I had done some reading about using the part cooling fan, with most articles saying you gain structural strength but lose in the finish of the part. Have you noticed a significant impact in the finish when not using a cooling fan?

Thank you for the help by the way!

You get a bit more stringing and it has a duller finish if you don't use the fan. Using the fan will also give you slightly sharper corners and details.
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