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Dome
#1
Photo 
And so the build begins!!

I'll be starting off with the dome, because that sounds like the most fun...

I've got a few pieces for the holoprojector printed, and I'm currently printing the first two main dome pieces. I've been testing different materials for the dome, and will be using PETG after severely inconsistent ABS printing and at the recommendation of Eebel here on the forum. I'll probably still have some PLA and ABS parts just because I have a lot of it sitting around, but the vast majority will be PETG to take advantage of the durability, heat resistance, and ease of printing. Picked up 3 spools today to get started!


[Image: BLxEYFE.jpg]
First parts off the printer. White ABS and Grey PLA. 

Since this is my first time printing in PETG, I'm taking first print real slow at the recommendation at several sources online and will be increasing the speed slowly until I dial it in. I'm currently printing at a whopping 30mm/s! 

[Image: C0C9cXV.jpg]
Here's my little robot duo hard at work currently! 

I am curious what other people who are using PETG are printing at. The results at this speed are fantastic, but just painfully slow.

That's all for now. Now we wait!
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#2
(09-15-2018, 03:50 AM)woody Wrote: ...
I am curious what other people who are using PETG are printing at. The results at this speed are fantastic, but just painfully slow.
...

I only go real slow on the first couple layers (25% of PLA speeds) just to make sure it sticks to the bed, and quickly crank it up to PLA speeds after that, it sticks to itself real well. Don't use a parts fan, layer adhesion will be better without it.
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#3
(09-15-2018, 03:17 PM)LarryJ Wrote:
(09-15-2018, 03:50 AM)woody Wrote: ...
I am curious what other people who are using PETG are printing at. The results at this speed are fantastic, but just painfully slow.
...

I only go real slow on the first couple layers (25% of PLA speeds) just to make sure it sticks to the bed, and quickly crank it up to PLA speeds after that, it sticks to itself real well. Don't use a parts fan, layer adhesion will be better without it.

Gotcha! Sounds good. That's about what I have it now. Regular print speed of 50mm/s and 15mm/s for the initial layer. Unfortunately, I'm using Cura and I don't think it lets me change the speed for more than the first layer. 

I had done some reading about using the part cooling fan, with most articles saying you gain structural strength but lose in the finish of the part. Have you noticed a significant impact in the finish when not using a cooling fan?

Thank you for the help by the way!
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#4
I use Simplify 3D. It's worth the money for the refined control over your print. I use white eSun PETG and print at 240C with an 85 degree bed temp. Most prints can be done at 3600 mm/min. I clean the bed (PEI) periodically with alcohol. I have not had any bed adhesion problems with this setup. In fact, it often sticks too well and hard to get off.

I do not use the cooling fan at all. I printed a majority of my prints on my Taz 6 with a .5 mm nozzle and using .4mm layer height. However, I did put a .4mm nozzle on my Taz mini so I can print some of the cosmetic pieces at a .3 ( or even .2mm for some stuff like the interface tool). If you have small columns to print you will want to slow down to 2000mm/min. But with Simplify 3D, it is easy to add a speed change to affect only the part of the print that needs the slower speed for detail. All in all R2 is so big you gain reduced print times with the bigger layer height. The finishing time is negligible as you sand out and bondo the layer lines which are needed at .4 or .3 layer heights. In general, the higher the layer height the stronger the piece will be.

Oh, I think I have used 30KG of PETG for my R2. Maybe one spool of Raptor PLA and nearly 2 pounds of Nylon. Having said that, I have probably 3 spools of test pieces ( as I developed custom pieces) and power outage and other failed prints. Overall I have over 35 days of print time in pieces that are in R2.

Eebel
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#5
(09-17-2018, 05:53 AM)Eebel Wrote: I use Simplify 3D.  It's worth the money for the refined control over your print.  I use white eSun PETG and print at 240C with an 85 degree bed temp.  Most prints can be done at 3600 mm/min.  I clean the bed (PEI) periodically with alcohol.  I have not had any bed adhesion problems with this setup.  In fact, it often sticks too well and hard to get off.

I do not use the cooling fan at all.  I printed a majority of my prints on my Taz 6 with a .5 mm nozzle and using .4mm layer height.  However, I did put a .4mm nozzle on my Taz mini so I can print some of the cosmetic pieces at a .3 ( or even .2mm for some stuff like the interface tool).  If you have small columns to print you will want to slow down to 2000mm/min.  But with Simplify 3D, it is easy to add a speed change to affect only the part of the print that needs the slower speed for detail.  All in all R2 is so big you gain reduced print times with the bigger layer height.  The finishing time is negligible as you sand out and bondo the layer lines which are needed at .4 or .3 layer heights.  In general, the higher the layer height the stronger the piece will be.

Oh, I think I have used 30KG of PETG for my R2.  Maybe one spool of Raptor PLA and nearly 2 pounds of Nylon.  Having said that, I have probably 3 spools of test pieces ( as I developed custom pieces) and power outage and other failed prints.  Overall I have over 35 days of print time in pieces that are in R2.

Eebel

Thanks for the information! That's incredibly helpful. I'll be back up and printing PETG this week. This weekend turned out to be a bust for main dome piece, because I wasted most of my time trying to tune a printer that I found out had a broken PINDA probe. I have a new shipping out today! I'll play around with those settings, and I definitely need to increase my layer height!! I'm printing mine pretty fine, and it's taking far too long. 

Also, I'm curious what you used the Nylon filament for in your build? I've never used it before, and I'm curious what it would be useful for. 

Thanks again for the help!

I read somewhere in the forum that there is a file that lists which files should be printed with supports. Does anyone know where that file is located?
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#6
(09-15-2018, 03:45 PM)woody Wrote: I had done some reading about using the part cooling fan, with most articles saying you gain structural strength but lose in the finish of the part. Have you noticed a significant impact in the finish when not using a cooling fan?

Thank you for the help by the way!

You get a bit more stringing and it has a duller finish if you don't use the fan. Using the fan will also give you slightly sharper corners and details.
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#7
(09-20-2018, 11:49 PM)LarryJ Wrote:
(09-15-2018, 03:45 PM)woody Wrote: I had done some reading about using the part cooling fan, with most articles saying you gain structural strength but lose in the finish of the part. Have you noticed a significant impact in the finish when not using a cooling fan?

Thank you for the help by the way!

You get a bit more stringing and it has a duller finish if you don't use the fan. Using the fan will also give you slightly sharper corners and details.

Yeah, that's basically exactly what I ended up seeing. I turned up the fan slightly to avoid some layer separation I was getting without the fan. It's working pretty great now!

Dome production is in full swing this week! 

I haven't been able to post this week due to my schedule and classwork, but I have been printing nonstop and have both printers dialed in, so now it's full steam ahead! I've got my main dome pieces printing in PETG on the R1+ and some cosmetic pieces printing in  PLA on the Prusa i3 MK3 currently. I wanted to just make this post showing the pieces I've gotten so far, and what I tweaked to get some consistent results I'm happy with. 

So far, I have the first 4 main dome pieces and I'm currently printing the fifth. 

[Image: 3khH2kP.jpg?1]



The following pictures show the results of my first print using PETG were done with a 245 degree print temperature, 80 degree bed, and no part cooling fan whatsoever. I got some pretty noticeable layer separation and stringing, which is manageable, but I thought I could improve it. 
[Image: nFN5x86.jpg]         [Image: ytx03NV.jpg] 


After this print, I increased the retraction and extra prime amount and also turned on the part cooling fan with a regular speed of 20% and maximum of 50%, and saw immediate improvements. I've been printing with these settings and have been very please with the results. I can still improve the retraction settings a bit as I'm still getting those gaps at the beginning of layers, but that doesn't bother me too much

[Image: NCaTnry.jpg]        [Image: 8QXEucU.jpg]

The lighting and my camera caused some strange circular artifact in the first image that isn't really there...strange

Now, while I wait for the rest of the dome pieces to print, I'm beginning to look forward and plan the electronics for the logic lights and dome panel controls. I've been looking around the forum, and I really like Teece's logic lights, which I know several members have used with great success. If anyone has any other recommendations for other configurations, let me know! I'm trying to do as much research into as I can to create a good light array. 

I'll be out of town this weekend, so I plan on starting a long print to keep the printer's busy while I'm gone!
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#8
The R-Series logics are a (more expensive?) alternative to the Teeces logics. They better imitate the original color wheel and fiber optic logics used in the original build. To me they have an almost organic feel to them which I like.

You can see mine here:
https://www.3dprinteddroids.net/thread-401.html

You still the something else (like Teeces) for your PSIs.

Marcduino seem to be the most popular choice for dome control. They co-ordinate the lights, sounds and servos, and can even be controlled by an app on your phone. I have bought in some blank v1.5 PCBs and will be having a go at building my own.
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#9
i just finished my padawan 360 setup in my r2, and about to start soldeing my teeces. DanF has done some great work integrating teeces with padawan 360. all working of a xbox 360 controller. absoloutely love it. especially the automation mode

also i decided not to use marcduinos master boards and using the padawan 360 as master instead. but i dont have panel servo control unless i code it myself. i have 2 sets of marcduino blank PCBS from ohspark if anyone is interested. can post em for cheap depending on location. i am in Australia.
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#10
(09-23-2018, 05:05 PM)Luc Wrote: i just finished my padawan 360 setup in my r2, and about to start soldeing my teeces. DanF has done some great work integrating teeces with padawan 360. all working of a xbox 360 controller. absoloutely love it. especially the automation mode

also i decided not to use marcduinos master boards and using the padawan 360 as master instead. but i dont have panel servo control unless i code it myself. i have 2 sets of marcduino blank PCBS from ohspark if anyone is interested. can post em for cheap depending on location. i am in Australia.

I hadn't looked into the padwan 360 in much detail. Sounds powerful if it can directly integrate with the dome lights and presumably the sounds as well. The shadow system I am building relies on the marcduinos to do that stuff.

I just started building up my marcduinos last night. Turns out I already had most of the components I needed. I was only missing the microcontrollers, the pcbs and the screw terminals.
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