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Putting R2 back together again
#1
Ok, crunch time!!

Everything (I can think of) is painted and dry - now I have about 14 hours to get everything back together so R2 can attend 4th of July festivities tomorrow.

A few quick disclaimers before I dive into this:

1: This is not a definitive set of instructions. There are many ways to assemble R2. It all depends on the parts you have and availability of hardware in your area. 

2: I started this project very early in Michaels development cycle (November 2016), so some of my parts my be a bit different than what is available now. I will document the differences that I am aware of, but I'm sure he has made more updates that I have not run across yet (I'll save those for droid #2).

3: For this post, I will only be going over assembly of the model, I will cover the electronics in another post.

4: This is a RE-ASSEMBLY. My droid was fully functional when I took him apart for painting, so I have a good idea where everything should go. I'm not going to make any upgrades because of the short time limit I have to get him back up and running - we'll save those for later.

4: I will post incremental updates, but the thread will be locked until I'm done - it will make it easier to read if all the comments follow the rebuild.

Enough of the chit-chat - time to get working....
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#2
Well... I'm not going to make my 14 hour deadline Sad  -- but I'm close.

I believe this is the droid we are looking for:

[Image: attachment.php?aid=758]

He's just a static droid at the moment, but everything is together. He's not perfect, some (fixable?) mistakes were made, I've found some details that still need to be painted and I need to work on the doors some more - but I am happy!!!!

I quickly realized I wouldn't be able to update the thread as I was working, so I took a bunch of notes and lots of pictures, details to come shortly.

Now on to the electronics......


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#3
Sorry for the delay - 48 hours on the go, with only 8 hours of sleep, really wiped me out. I guess the old brain/body can't handle that kind of abuse anymore Sad 

As mentioned, I didn't make my 14 hour deadline (start of 4th of July parade), but he was done by the end of the parade. So he was at least enjoyed by family and friends that came over that day. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pics of that, was too busy cooking and hosting. I'm sure some will float into me eventually.

This is the pile of parts to be assembled:

[Image: attachment.php?aid=763]

Tools used are: #2 Philips screwdriver, mini Philips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, various metric alan head wrenches, 1/2" socket with extension and needle nose pliers.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=764]


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#4
A milk crate is used to stand the body on while working. Here is the bare, freshly painted body, on the crate ready for assembly:

[Image: attachment.php?aid=765]

Michael didn't have all the nice nut slots designed into the skirt at the time, nuts were just supposed to be glued to the skirt. Knowing that I would eventually have loose nuts rolling around inside the skirt, I just glued the skirt to the body. This may cause a problem once I go to install the new 2-3-2 setup, but I may have a solution for that once I get there.


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#5
First to be installed is the front vents.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=771]

As you can see, I am using the original bracket for the grill. Make sure the vent with the thinner horizontal slats is on the bottom.

Two 1/2" #6 screws are used to hold the vents to the front frame, and four 1/2" #4 screws to mount the frame to the body.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=772]

[Image: attachment.php?aid=773]


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#6
The front coin return is next:

[Image: attachment.php?aid=778]

On my droid, the front one is a very snug fit. I didn't use any but a couple M4x10mm screws (w/ nuts) can be used to hold this in.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=779]


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#7
On to the Utility Arm module.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=780]

Make sure and sand down the utility arm pegs so that they are snug, but can still be removed. Mine don't drop out so I drilled a small pilot hole and screwed in a #6 screw so I could pull them out.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=781]

If you will be automating the utility arms, now is a good time to mount the servo bracket and servos - the bottom screws can be tough to get to, once the completed module is installed.


[Image: attachment.php?aid=782]

Two 3/4" #4 screws are used to attach the dataport. The wider side goes towards the top.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=783]

I used two 3/4" #8 screws for the bottom of the module, M4 x 12mm nut/screws should also work. Either way, you will need an angled driver to screw them in.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=785]

I don't recommend gluing the module in. I know in my case, I may need to remove it in the future to tune the arms for automation. Between the lower screws and upper body ring, which we'll be adding in a few steps, the module should be very secure.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=784]


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#8
Coin slots were a bit tight so the slots in the body had to be cleaned out a bit with a razor. Though they probably aren't needed, two 1/2" #4 screws were used to hold the coin slots to the body.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=786]

This is the first place that I noticed I still have some detail painting to do - coin slots need some silver paint applied to the ends. I'll do all this after he is together - no time for paint to dry now.


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#9
Almost done with all the greebles.

Side vents were installed using two 1" #8 screws.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=787]

[Image: attachment.php?aid=788]

Front and rear grills were installed using a couple M4 x 10mm screws/nuts to hold them in.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=789]

I still need to paint and install the blue inserts.

The front Octagon Port was the last greeble to be installed on the main body.

[Image: attachment.php?aid=791]


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