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Greetings from Country Victoria, Australia
#1
Hi All,
Thanks for the Add, this is so exciting!

I'm new to the forum, and to the whole scale model building thing. I've decided to have a go at building an R2D2...but not just any R2D2. I'm attempting to build an R2D2 entertainment system. I'll be putting an LED projector in the head with Android TV (I'll hinge the Radar Eye), removable Bluetooth speaker and a set of USB charge points in the front, and a big battery to power the whole thing in the body. 

My day job is working with UAVs, and I have several years experience both working commercially  and in R&D building and tuning commercial UAVs. This has given me a decent background in the rc side of things, but the whole replica build is a bit new.

I'm planning on using the Michael Baddeley 3D printed design (v2), and building a fixed head (no spin), permanent 3 leg model. I'd love to have the retractable leg, but will need the space for the battery). The idea is to run it off a Pixhawk 2 with ArduRover set up with tank steering, and just leave to middle wheel as a trailing wheel. I might use a companion board (Pi3) if I want to get more automated.

I've bought myself a Cocoon Create Touch (Wanhao i3) printer from ALDI, and so far the test prints have come out better than expected in PLA. I'll be moving to ABS for the main build, but the printer is in the house not the garage over winter, and the ABS fumes are pretty bad.

I'm keen to hear from anyone who can provide suggestions and/or advice, especially if you have the same printer (printer resolution, fill, speed, etc).

Out of interest, has anyone modded the head design to be a screw-on dome? I'd like to keep the "clean no-screws" look of R2, but can forsee needing to take the head off from time to time.

Thanks!
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#2
Welcome to the group!

We look forward to seeing your progress.

Speed will be dependent on your printer. The model has been designed to print at .3 layer height (.2 will save you some sanding time, but almost double your print time). Most parts can be printed at 20% infill, many of us increase infill and wall thickness on parts that take stress (shoulder modules, ankles).
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#3
I have two printers the same.

First thing is to buy Simply3d for $150, just using this software and gcode it will make your prints look so much better.

I also upgrade the print head to full hotend and nozzle (microswiss).

What I find is that the extruder gears get worn very quickly using certain materials ie clear or any really hard PLA.

I have done over 3000 hours between the two and they are still going strong (printing a BB-8 atm with about 20 hours per day on each one)

I also recommended buying or building the z supports that will remove nearly completely any banding/layering lines.

I can export my profile on the printer if you like if you buy S3d for you to try the settings for PLA.

Phill

p.s Always print as high as you can as it will reduce more time in sanding later.
p.s.s Having a spinning head means you can lift it off anytime as it sits on bolts sticking up from the lazy susan. You will probably have more work to do to make it non spinning!
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#4
Great to see another Aussie here! And I dont think your the only country Victorian either! Welcome from Adelaide!
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#5
(07-03-2018, 01:47 AM)LarryJ Wrote: Welcome to the group!

We look forward to seeing your progress.

Speed will be dependent on your printer. The model has been designed to print at .3 layer height (.2 will save you some sanding time, but almost double your print time). Most parts can be printed at 20% infill, many of us increase infill and wall thickness on parts that take stress (shoulder modules, ankles).

Thanks Larry, and an awesome job setting up this forum!

(07-03-2018, 01:56 AM)phul007 Wrote: I have two printers the same.

First thing is to buy Simply3d for $150, just using this software and gcode it will make your prints look so much better.

I also upgrade the print head to full hotend and nozzle (microswiss).

What I find is that the extruder gears get worn very quickly using certain materials ie clear or any really hard PLA.

I have done over 3000 hours between the two and they are still going strong (printing a BB-8 atm with about 20 hours per day on each one)

I also recommended buying or building the z supports that will remove nearly completely any banding/layering lines.

I can export my profile on the printer if you like if you buy S3d for you to try the settings for PLA.

Phill

p.s Always print as high as you can as it will reduce more time in sanding later.
p.s.s Having a spinning head means you can lift it off anytime as it sits on bolts sticking up from the lazy susan. You will probably have more work to do to make it non spinning!

Hi Phil,
Thanks for the info! I'll take all the advice I can get, especially about the printer. As I said, my test prints are going well, although I almost broke the damn thin last night. I was printing with the 30 g demo PLA that came with the machine, and it got tangled on the spool Undecided. Luckily I caught it pretty quickly and cancelled the print. Believe it or not, I was actually printing the z-axis stabilizers from thingiverse!

Out of interest, how high are you printing, 0.1 mm? If I do this, my printing time is HUGE, but I can accept that if I get a better product form it.

Are you printing in ABS or PLA?

Good to know that the spinning head only sits on. I'll probably keep it as-is then. I assumed it bolted down.

From reading your build log, I feel a bit overwhelmed atm, but I'll start with the dome, and see how I go. Luckily my wife fully supports the build, and is keen to do the painting (probably not all the sanding though ;-) ).

Cheers
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#6
Hello from Canberra

The sanding/filling/painting/sanding again/painting again/repeat is a big part of the build. I can't imagine how much time the builders on here who have pristine looking droids have put into it.

I wish I had spent the time to get my print quality perfect before printing the body out, as I now have to spend a lot of extra time in getting it smooth.

Michael recommends a layer height of .3mm which I have used on many of the parts, but some parts do benefit from 0.2 or even lower, for example I think the radar eye (depending on your print orientation) can benefit from being printed as fine as you can go.

Martin
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#7
Hello and Welcome from a fellow Country Victorian.

We are even using the same printer :-)
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#8
(07-03-2018, 07:15 AM)Cyber_One Wrote: Hello and Welcome from a fellow Country Victorian.

We are even using the same printer :-)

Hi Cyber_One,
That could come in handy! I'm based in the Warrnambool region.

The good old ALDI special seems like the common printer in Australia, phul007 is also running them.

I'd been keen to hear your thoughts/comments on the printer/software and how it's going. Are you using ABS or PLA?
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#9
I' up closer to Bendigo, just a bit north west of there.

I user Simplify 3D as my slicer program,
I also have a CTC I3 ProB printer, had that about a year and a half, only picked up the Cocoon Create Touch in April after it had been discounted quite a lot.
So far i have had to replace the bed thermistor, twice and the build tac once, but other than that, I found it to be a good reliable and easy to use printer

I have replaced the bed adjustment screws with nylock nuts and I have a BLtouch to install.
Not impressed with the current firmware, and when it stops long enough I will install the BLtouch and upgrade the firmware to the one on this site https://andrivet.github.io/ADVi3pp-User-Manual/

Just a tip, don't let your printer run out of filament when printing at 215 degree C or higher, or you will have to replace the PTFE liner tube in your hot end.
Learned this the hard way and now make sure i have spare tube on hand for when I forget to check the remaining filament on the spool.

Have fun with your printing and If you have any question ask away, the only really stupid question is the one that wasn't asked.. ;-)
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#10
Thanks Cyber One. With both you phul007 using Simplify 3D, AND running the same printer, I'll take that to mean it works better than Cura.

Are you guys printing in PLA or ABS? I'm mainly wondering whether your printer settings in Simplify 3D (or gcode, depending on whether that can be shared) would work for me, or whether I'd need to tweak it. 

My plan is to print in ABS, mainly for strength and longevity.

Cheers
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