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Start of my build
This project started after a number of smaller events in April 2018:
·        I stumbled across Mr Baddeley’s STL files via his Patreon Page after watching an InMoov builders Vlog on starting an AstroDroid (R2D2) complete with links to Mr Baddeley’s Patreon Page.
·        I mentioned this to my Son.
·        My Son mentioned it to his mother.
·        My Wife then asked could I build one by Christmas.
So the project was started.

Each year the Family get together, my young Nephew is a big Star Wars fan and even has a large lego R2D2 that he has built.  I can only imagine the look on his face when he sees a full size functioning R2D2 droid rolling aroundJ

Based on information on Mr Baddeley’s Patreon page, I found the 3D Printed Droid Page and from there the page.
Registered with first the Astromech group and then with the 3D Printed Droid site.

I had been building the InMoov robot over the last year and was onto my second one when I found the R2D2 plans.  As such I have a bit of experience in building larger projects and robotic automation.  As Kyle Campbell said in one of his video, every InMoov robot needs and Astromech J

Like most I started with the dome and at the same time started to order in most of the hardware I was going to need.

I chose to print in PLA because it’s easy to print in, my printer was not enclosed, and I had some while PLA on hand.  Joining the PLA parts together is not as easy as ABS, one of the major reasons Michael Baddeley printed his in ABS, that and it more temperature resistant when at exhibitions outside J
To overcome the joining of the parts, I chose to plastic weld the parts together using a 3D Pen.
This has a hot tip and extrudes PLA out at 200 degree C allowing for a join as strong as the printed parts.  My experience with CA glued part or two part epoxy glued parts has not been great with the InMoov robot, and I ended up plastic welding all those parts together as well.

My CTC I3 Pro B printer was rated to 200 x 200 x 180 mm, however, I was only able to get 190 x 200 x 180 out of it, the X-Axis never made the full travel, with this in mind, I used the R2D2ver2 Dome Full scale smaller cut set of files.
Starting with the Lower Dome I printed out all seven parts and bolted them together.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=590]

While waiting for the seven Upper Ring parts to print, I plastic welded the lower dome parts together, welding both the inside and outside seams using the pictured 3D Pen.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=591]

Once the parts are welded together, some filing will need to be done to give a seamless finish. The inside won’t be seen, so no filing in there. As can be seen in the pic below, the top half has been filed flat, while the bottom half is the raw weld.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=593]

For those wondering why I printed the Upper Ring before the Middle Dome parts, It was the weekend, so I was home, and as those parts take less time to print, I was able to clear the print bed and start the next part faster, The Middle Dome was slower at 3 parts per day, whereas the upper ring was printed over the weekend and the middle dome was able to be started.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=594]

After printing the middle dome, I next printed out the top pie supports and then started on the Pie pieces. This is where the first warnings of a problem in my printer showed up, the middle and the lower dome sections did fully align….
[Image: attachment.php?aid=595]

With some concern, I posted a query to the 3D Printed Droid forum, the responses suggested that the problem may not be as bad as I first thought.
So I welded the parts together.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=596]
[Image: attachment.php?aid=597]

With a lot of filing, some sanding and then body filler, more sanding and a first coat of paint the results are passable J
[Image: attachment.php?aid=598]

That does it for this post, but the build continues....
Next up, that start of the body..

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
I still need to work on my welds - they don't come out that nice. I think I need to work on the flattening while still hot.
I use the same tool that I use to lift the prints off the bed.
The trick is to extrude/weld about 10mm using your right hand, and then flatten with your left hand while still dragging the 3D Pen along the seam.

I only bother the flattening on the visible surfaces.
The deeper you can get the tip into the job, the stronger the weld will be.
Try and keep the 3d Pen tip between 90 and 45 degrees with respect to the work piece, the closer to 90 you get the deeper you will be able to get.
Make sure you are not going too fast, the extrusion should be just proud of the surface.

Like anything, you will get better with it with practice.

I plan to weld up some dome lower ring parts today, I will see if I can get a camera setup to record the process and upload it to YouTube.

I do have a major problem that has appeared with my build, this will become apparent in my next build log and also explains why I have to re-print the dome lower ring and possibly the dome upper ring.
I just wish I had taken more photos :-(

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