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  Hi folks from Kansas City
Posted by: justkelly - 04-13-2019, 04:25 AM - Forum: New Members - Replies (2)

Hi folks. I'm Kelly. I built an R2-D2 a couple years ago, with some of the smaller pieces 3-D printed. I also just finished printing the static BB-8 and am currently working on the Cary drive and a new 3-D printed R2-KT. Also starting to toy with Dio because of course I am Smile

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Photo Hi from Long Beach California!
Posted by: Dang8 - 04-12-2019, 01:00 AM - Forum: New Members - Replies (2)

Just wanted to take a moment and introduce myself to the board. 

I've been 3d printing for YEARS (started by rebuilding a Solidoodle 2) and have used a range of printers. My current printers include a Prusa MK3s MMU2, Prusa MK2s, Formlabs From2, and a boxed CubeX Pro Trio. (Oh, and a CNC Shark, Laser engraver/cutter, and a vinyl cutter - yeah, lots of toys). As for software, I use to only use Sketchup. However, I have dabbled in Solidworks and have finally settled on Fusion360. 

The largest thing I have printed is a 3d Lego Car at 400%. I wanted to try something a little more complex and that would not only take printing skills but also require me to learn electronics. I've have been learking on the Astromech forums and what not for a few years and decided to take the leap.

I'm more then willing to help the community where I can. If you need anything super detailed printed on the From2, cut, or whatever, let me know and I can see what I can do.

With that, I'm going to end this with a pic of my dome status and my buddies helping me out on it. -Dan



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  Metal Casting 3D printed Parts
Posted by: Eebel - 03-31-2019, 02:15 PM - Forum: Off Topic - Replies (4)

Wow, I just got this advertisement from LulzBot spammed into my YouTube video.  Honestly, it’s one of the first ads I actually watched.  It got me thinking of the possibilities of printing interesting metal droid details. 



Eebel

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  Hello from Belgium
Posted by: krisbi - 03-30-2019, 10:33 AM - Forum: New Members - Replies (2)

Hello all, some time ago i printed a 30cm tall R2, now i'm going for the real size version.

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  Salutations from Southwest Virginia
Posted by: morgenes - 03-29-2019, 11:02 PM - Forum: New Members - Replies (1)

My name is Andy and I have lurked around the Astromech site for some time. I have a standard sytrene build already started, but I love 3D printing and just bought a new CR-10 and thought I would give the 3D files a try. I will be digging through builds and posts with wild abandon. Thank you for having me.

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  Dirty Down Paint Set for Weathering
Posted by: LarryJ - 03-29-2019, 09:05 PM - Forum: Bonding, Painting and Finishing - Replies (19)

Michael is looking into doing a group purchase of some Dirty Down weathering paint.

This is the same paint they use to weather the droids in the movies. Recommended colors are Black, Dark Brown, Amber Blonde and Rust.


They do not have distributers in the US (yet?), so we have been looking into doing a trial run and having it shipped to the US and then distributing locally.

Local shipping will be least expensive if done in sets.


For this initial run we're looking at 12 sets (well... 11, one is mine bwa-ha-ha) - and will distribute in sets of all 4, a set of 3 (Black, Brown, Blonde) and just the Rust. To keep things fair, only one set per person.
 
At the moment we are looking at roughly $17 a can, with shipping to a single location within the US (this may change as we get more details).


US cost would be:
  $68 for a 4 can set (Black, Brown, Blonde and Rust), plus $18 for local (2-3 day) shipment (in the lower 48), total of $86.
  $51 for 3 can set (Black, Brown and Blonde), plus $15 for shipping, total of $66
  $17 for 1 can (Rust), plus $8 for shipping, total of $25

Update:
At the moment we are looking at roughly $15 a can, with shipping to a single location within the US (this may change as we get more details).


US cost would be:
  $60 for a 4 can set (Black, Brown, Blonde and Rust), plus $18 for local (ground) shipment (in the lower 48), total of $78.
  $45 for 3 can set (Black, Brown and Blonde), plus $15 for shipping, total of $60
  $15 for 1 can (Rust), plus $8 for shipping, total of $23



Reply below if you would be interested. Depending on how this goes we hope to do more in the future. If you are coming here from FB, make sure and give me your name so I get you on the list correctly - and then become a member  Tongue

Right now, this is just an interest list, no payments until the order has made it to the States and we know a true final cost.

Current List:
  
01: Matt Long (FB)
02: Scott Kraft (FB)
03: Adam Catt (FB)
04: David Pruett (FB)
05: Todd Walden (FB)
06: Grey Fox (FB)
07: Roy Sekulich (FB)
08: Brian Olson (FB)
09: Steven Dodds  (FB) ?
10: cobra troy
11: Eebel
12: gpavey
13: arkofthecovenant
14: adailyptc
15: dignan25
16: Jeremy Lindstrom (FB)
17: Tim OSullivan (FB)
18: chicagoDroid
19. James VanDusen (FB)
20: Ryan Roehrich (FB)
21: DaneG
22: Scruffy Looking

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  Howdy from Texas
Posted by: trimfandango - 03-27-2019, 05:45 AM - Forum: New Members - Replies (1)

Hi, my name is Jody from Houston, TX. I'm printing a full-size R2.
Thanks for the add, looking forward to learning from and getting inspired by this group.

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  Ironman Construction
Posted by: phul007 - 03-24-2019, 10:38 PM - Forum: phul007 - Replies (2)

Spend a day making a baseplate out of wood and then wrapped it with Aluminum Sheet and then used a fence post (new) to bolt to the wood.
The letters are just sitting there at this stage as I am still pondering where they should go.
The plan is to build the suit and use the pole to mount the suit against using magnets inside the suit to attach the supports outside again with magnets.

Using magnets will stop having to put holes in the suit and allow it to be removed if I ever need to move it.

BASEPLATE
[Image: attachment.php?aid=1525]

POLE (no dancing on this one!)
[Image: attachment.php?aid=1523]


Start of construction:

So I used a painter suit and while wearing it duct taped around the bottom half of the suit.
I then cut the legs off and used it to line the inside of each leg and using a 40mm pvc pipe as a skeletion I then back filled with expanding foam.
As just then added the next section and repeatd the same steps which made the parts sit in the right place and made it very solid.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=1519]

I used a camera tripod to support the legs while they were drying.


[Image: attachment.php?aid=1520]


[Image: attachment.php?aid=1521]

TEST FIT IN FINAL LOCATION

In the man cave I test the size of the suit before I had finished the plate. Old Steve the stromtrooper must be getting jealous as he is still waiting for his armour to be made. Hang on old buddy your next.

Test fit of Torso.

So the next section with be the lower body and rib cage. This looks good for the test fit and will be a inner liner and then fill.
The pvc will be extended to allow the main chest piece to sit on and the use T pieces to connect the arms to.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=1524]



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  Hello from Northern Illinois!
Posted by: stugpanzer - 03-19-2019, 12:37 PM - Forum: New Members - Replies (4)

I have wanted to build a droid for quite some time now.  I have several 3d printers and would like to get a start.  I will, no doubt, have a ton of questions as I proceed!  Thanks for having me!

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Photo Update from Atlanta, GA
Posted by: adailyptc - 03-18-2019, 05:23 PM - Forum: New Members - Replies (5)

I'm embarrassed to admit that I've been a member of this site for just about 9 months now, and while I've asked several questions (and received great feedback) I have yet to post photos of my build.  Partially because I spend most of my free time building instead of posting, but mostly because I'm just lazy.

First, a bit of history on my build.  I've been printing off-and-on now for about 6 months with my single Prusa MK3.  The first 3 months were filled with ordering/assembling my printer and enclosure.  R2 is my first printed project.  Not sure why I always feel the need to jump into any new hobby with insanely complex projects first.  But hey, that's what I've always done so I didn't see any reason to change that here.  I wanted to learn about cars a while back, so my daughter and I spent 3 years building a '65 Shelby Cobra replica.  My printer is in the IKEA enclosure from Prusa, and everything, except for various bits in nylon or flex, is being printed in ABS and acetone welded.  I also built a small ventilated paint booth so I could prime/paint during the colder months (not many here in Georgia, but there are a few).

When I began, the goal I set for myself was to complete the exterior shell of R2 by the end of May.  Primarily to show off to family arriving for my kids' high school graduation, but also as an intermediate goal toward completing the electronics by Halloween 2019.  I have found that without goals and deadlines my projects tend to languish.  I have also found that if I don't at least do something each day (sometimes as little as just staring), then my projects suffer the same fate.  My build is based on Version 2.  I was pretty far along when Version 3 parts started showing up, so my plan is to complete the build with Version 2 and then start updating various parts, such as foot drives and omniwheels, as time allows after completion.

So, here are a few photos of my work area and R2-to-date.  He's not perfect, but I figured the weathering I intend to apply will cover any imperfections.  I have taken hundreds of progress photos, but won't bore you with those since everybody here probably has a pretty good idea of what progress photos look like.  Of course, I will post if anybody has a specific question or I feel I might have something that might help somebody else as I read through other's posts.

Hopefully these links work, as it's my first attempt to post photos:

   

   

   

   

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